The ferry's visor lifts slowly and I sit on my FJ expectantly waiting for the off. The dock crew mess around with nautical things. I can see it's a nice morning and contemplate the next couple of hours after the ship incarceration. Sun-soaked curves taken on the limit (well. it's early days, say 20% from the limit; but we'll warm up); great scenery, forests, lakes, trees, mountains, great food too. All these lie expectantly before me after an evening of very good ferry food and drink and a comfortable cabin and sleep, awake at a reasonable hour and breakfast-cum lunch. Yet ten minutes later and I am still waiting to get off the boat. It's cool in the shade but I need to get the road under wheel. I have done my warming and stretching exercises, mental adjustment to right hand side driving and the route onwards and so I'm getting just the tiniest bit fed up. A nod from the officer and I'm away from the pack, slalom through the ferry port, looking for customs, but right through to the ramp towards the main road and I'm away. The town, despite it being 09.15, isn't really awake so the passge through is untroubled and comforting as I settle into the continental routine.
If you've been on the continent before you'll probably have experienced something similar. The expectation and the off, especially under the ideal conditions I had this trip. If you haven't, then go for it. As I said, sweepers even if way back from the limit provide a splendid feeling when you link them together. Out of a cutting onto a well-engineered bridge with superb views left and right and stop in a clean, well provided rest area a couple of hours along the way. As usual, the FJ utters not one complaint as we get mobile; the man-machine interface etc etc..... By and bye, a gentle five hours later, I get to my first stop. An afternoon shopping, cooking, eating and relaxing. Next morning, a leisurely off, and a steady pace north.
Boring bits on the continent are like boring bits back home, dual carriage-way, single, speed limits, clouds and spits and spats of rain. Oh well, on we go with the occasional bike in the opposite direction giving the wave that is really a handshake. It's comforting when the weather looks a bit grim and friendly-happy when the sun shines. But a moment of nervous panic. I'm being waved to the side, and it looks like police. Indeed it is. Along with perhaps a dozen other drivers, I'm being guided into a lay-by and policemen are walking down the line talking to drivers and looking at documents. 'But I wasn't speeding officer', I mentally rehearse the spiel.... However, it's not speed they are after but a quick blow into a black box. Ah, a random breathalyser test. No problems, even at 10.30 (a m!) and I was on my way with a courteous smile. Breathalysers at dawn. Gulp, a little disconcerting.
Oh, I've not said where we were yet. Any guesses? Twenty hours from Newcastle and you can get to Kristiansand and 5 hours from there brings you to Oslo. Right, Norway. Now Norway is not the first idea of continental travel. Yet I met two brothers (Kwakker and Beemer) on the quay at Kristiansand on my return who were ecstatic about Norway after their first week there. I am too, and so, I hope would you be. I'll outline my trip over the summer which will give you a flavour of the place perhaps and of some motorcycling's ups and downs.
There is not much true motorway in Norway but there is dual
carriageway and I was heading on this up the E6. Then all of a
sudden, you are down to one track in each direction, but the scenery
improves a little from endless trees and cuttings blasted through
rock. North, by-passing Lillehammer where the winter Olympics
were held. As well as various sports facilities there is an open
air museum of old Norwegian buildings but mainly from the Gudbrandsalen
area. Worth a visit, especially if you do not get to visit the
one in the Museum area (Bygdøy) in Oslo. A bit further
on and I am suddenly at the back of a line of stationary traffic.
Cautiously, I move to the front and find a car off the road and
the fire brigade hosing things down. Ten minutes later and we
are waved on. It is normal for 'bikes to head to the front of
queues. I mention this because Norwegians are pretty law-abiding
folk and the police vigilant and you might not expect it to be
allowed. Heading to the front at ferries is also usual as there
is rarely a problem with space in which to squeeze the odd 'bike.
Dombas and the E6 climbs up onto Dovrefjell. Excellent views here
in good weather - which it still is. The kilometres tick by and
soon I'm on the motorway section south of Trondheim with a toll
section. Fortunately, 'bikes don't usually pay tolls, so head
for the left sections with the 'Abonnement' signs. There is a
toll system to get into Oslo for instance, even if you are passing
through, such as from the E18 from Kristiansand to join the E6
north. On this trip I am heading for Tromsø and I've not
time to stop off in Trondheim. If you are touring however, it
is well worth a visit, the Cathedral especially and it's a lively
town, Norway's third after Oslo and Bergen. The new section of
the E6 keeps to the west of the old route so you will have to
make a detour if you wish to visit the town of Hell.
Now there were rain showers which started to merge and by Steinkjer it was well and truly raining and I made the camp site and had the tent up in a lull. But that was it. Perhaps I should have rented a hut. (These huts, 'hytter', are common on campsites and very useful if the weather is bad. However, if you don't book ahead you will need to stop early to make sure you get a place. They come in various sizes, the smallest taking two people.)
Rain in the morning, putting on my gear in the washrooms, splashing off up the road, the E6 here is like the A9 north of Inverness rather than a major European dual carriageway. I just take it steadily although somewhat disappointed that some of the good views I know to exist are swathed in mist. A later halt is not made better by my waterproofs suddenly depositing water in both boots as soon as I get off the bike. A change of socks is speeded by a swarm of mosquitoes. A petrol stop and brief lunch in Mo-I-Rana but still the rain pours down. Garages often have snacks available, including the ubiquitous Norwegian 'hot dog' (Pølser) and the hot chocolate is usually a good buy.
More drippy woods and splashy road as I head north and only a faint grin as I go through the hamlet signed 'Nevermoen'. I try hard not to. Some 10km on from here the road rises more steeply and swings east. And lo, not a star but the sun. The Arctic Circle is passed at 90kph but I don't stop at the touristy opportunities. However, on the return journey in late July with the temperature barely above freezing, it was a welcome respite. The bleak moor here is high and the road shares it with the railway heading for Narvik, my next destination. The railway was built in the War with Russian and Czech prisoners of war - there are memorials to them just off the road. The FJ steams on and down to the coast again to Mosjoen and it's much better weather now. Off with the waterproofs at long last.
The route now starts to get into big mountains (which I can see for a change). The traffic decreases, a fair number of 'bikes, almost always giving a wave or the 'cool' arm out handshake. In my direction it's not bad at all, despite caravans and campers slowing things down at times. The road climbs steadily to an impressive granite wall that sweeps down at the head of the valley, and we just disappear inside to pop out into brilliant sun 3 km later. Impressive. Nearly all tunnels are well-drained and illuminated and wide enough for big trucks. On one section, 'bikes do have a toll to pay but at less than £3 for the series of tunnels and bridges it is good value (and no alternative!).
I'm aiming for a ferry, the only necessary one on this trip, and I make Borgeness after steady progress on dry road sweepers. Five minutes wait and another £3 and on the ferry; this one is new. I wander out to the top deck with a cup of chocolate and enjoy the 20 minutes sailing towards more granite peaks south of Narvik. Since the E6 was improved the number of ferry crossings has decreased but they are a nice break in journeys. If you enter Norway via Bergen and head north there is at least one to take if you head north. If you are heading for Nordkapp and visit Tromsø (various polar museums, the most northerly, legal, brewery in the world etc.) then the two ferries across the Lyngen peninsula save time and give you excellent views of the Lyngen Alps. Needless to say, the views depend upon the weather!
On the north shore good roads with a couple of very fine bridges and we're into the iron shipping town of Narvik. Not a lot to write home about but the campsite on the north of the town is adequate, even if the descent to the site pitches is gravel on poor tarmac. Up with the dripping tent but it soon dries in the wind and a brew and meal are on. I'm looking forward to a run over the hills tomorrow but I wake in the night to hear the familiar sound of the tent getting wet again. But it's clear a bit before 8 as I gun the FJ up the gravel. I chance it without the despised waterproofs. Ten minutes later I am struggling into them in a lay-by. Little traffic on the road but I get caught behind a truck as we climb up into mist and spirits sink a bit, but he soon waves me through. Visor wet outside and steamed in but all of a sudden, the mist thins and I'm welcomed into the next valley with bright sunlight. Soon I'm on familiar roads but note the appearance of Norwegian Gatsos ('automatisch traffik-kontrol'). Fortunately, these face forwards - or I think they do. Tromsø comes into view and I'm passing the modern white church, now named the 'Arctic cathedral', although it isn't, and over the bridge, dead on time for an appointment with coffee and an early lunch (Norwegians normally have it about 12.00).
That was some 2300km in about 30 hours riding time. You could do it in two, but better not for, as you'll see, my average speed was quite high - remember the speed limits. There's also much to see even if the views are obscured by cloud.
Why to go to Norway? It's different. The weather is generally better than I had last summer. The scenery is fantastic and the roads are surprisingly empty. Once off the beaten E6 there are plenty of roads to explore and the scenically-stuffed E17 is a marvel. In general, the engineering is very good and if you like hairpins there are some good ones to test you. Up from the Sogne to the mountains of the Jotunheimen is spectacular and there are some even hairier alternatives. Norwegians speak, for the most part, excellent English. A few phrases are useful though. Thus, heading down towards a hairpin, it's useful to know what 'Rekwerk Mangler' means without having to get out a dictionary ('Safety barrier missing'!).
Why not to go to Norway? If you desire guaranteed hot bright sun, then it's risky. You could be lucky but you pays your money It is not the cheapest place to get to. For my FJ it cost £240 return from Newcastle to Kristiansand. This was high season with a good cabin on the way out but steerage on return. Mind you, if you think that's expensive you should try high season crossing the Irish Sea. Conversely, the ferries within Norway are surprisingly cheap and a good way to see different bits of the country. Two plus bike from the Lofoten Islands to Bodø cost £24 for a 4 hour trip. Norway has the reputation of being expensive place to live. If you want a posh meal out it can be, but day to day it's little worse than the UK. Indeed, I topped up with fuel on my return to England and found that I'd paid more per litre than the day before in Norway! Petrol stations usually open late although they are few and far between in some places. The FJ's range will easily cover the separation, There may not be much choice of filling stations and the price per litre can vary surprisingly.
Another reason for not going to Norway is if you need to ride near the top end of the rev range. Norway has rather strict, and restricted, speed limits and the normal upper limit of 90 kph sees 2900 rpm in top gear. Hence the title. Mind you, it gives the best fuel consumption figures I've seen on my FJ! Funnily enough, it's not really a drag and you get used to it. Whether it actually does much for road safety in Norway I'm not so sure. As far as I know, road safety is actually worse than in the UK. Overall however, Norway is an excellent place to visit. I hope that a few visiting bikes with GB on the rear will dilute the omni-present Ds. If you would like any advice about visits then do contact me. The pound is strong against the Norwegian Crown at the moment.
My trip was part of a work visit (examining glaciers). Summer of '98 was a beautiful one in the north, '99 rather less so. I'll not dwell on the intervening couple of weeks. Five days camping on boulders at 1500m asl with cloud enveloping the tents with snow and sleet. Anyway.......
My return from Tromsø was to be more leisurely than
the trip north with visits to the Lofoten Islands and Jotunheimen.
The but the weather did not bode well as I picked Lyla up from
Tromsø airport and we headed west into the gloom. The speedo
cable then broke so speed limits were estimated from the rev counter!
Brian Whalley (b.whalley@qub.ac.uk)